Sloped landscapes often pose significant challenges for homeowners, from erosion control to creating usable outdoor space. Yet, with the right approach, these very slopes can be turned into captivating features that enhance the beauty and functionality of your garden. Whether you’re dealing with a gentle incline or a steep hillside, here are some practical techniques to make the most of your sloped terrain.
Understanding Your Slope: The Starting Point
Before diving into landscaping solutions, it’s essential to thoroughly assess your slope. Understand the degree of the slope, soil type, and existing vegetation. These factors will inform your design choices and help you tackle any potential problems, such as erosion or poor drainage.
Erosion Control: Keeping Your Soil in Place
Erosion is a common issue with sloped land, but there are several effective ways to manage it:
- Plantings: Use ground covers and low-growing shrubs with strong root systems to bind the soil. This method is cost-effective and adds greenery to your slope.
- Riprap and Baffles: Install rows of stones (riprap) or plastic/wood baffles to slow down water runoff. These act as small dams, helping soil to accumulate.
- Mini Terraces: On medium-grade slopes, create contours or mini-terraces to reduce water flow and prevent soil loss.
- Retaining Walls: For steep slopes, retaining walls are the most robust solution. They not only prevent erosion but also create flat areas for planting or recreation. Ensure walls are built to withstand soil pressure and fit aesthetically with your overall design.
Maximizing Outdoor Living Space
Slopes can limit your usable outdoor areas, but with creative solutions, you can turn them into attractive and functional spaces:
- Decks and Terraces: Build multi-level decks or terraces to create flat areas for seating, dining, or play. Decks are ideal for informal settings, while paved terraces suit formal landscapes.
- Steps and Landings: Use garden steps and landings to navigate slopes. These not only provide access but also control erosion. Match the materials with your landscape style for a cohesive look.
- Integrated Design: When building a new house, plan the floor levels to connect seamlessly with the flat areas of your yard. Use slopes to frame views or create a sense of enclosure.
Innovative Planting Techniques
Planting on slopes requires careful planning to ensure plants thrive and contribute to erosion control:
- Lawn Management: For gentle slopes, lawns can be maintained safely if the incline is not too steep. Use sod for quick establishment, or hydroseeding for larger areas.
- Ground Covers: For steep or difficult-to-mow slopes, ground covers are an excellent choice. They are easy to establish and maintain.
- Microclimates: Take advantage of the microclimates created by slopes. South-facing slopes warm up faster in spring, extending the growing season for certain plants. However, be mindful of potential frost damage to early bloomers.
- Terracing: For cultivated plants, create terraces following the slope contours. This method provides flat planting areas and helps with water management.
Practical Tips for Minor Erosion Control
For gentler slopes, simpler erosion control techniques can be effective:
- Baffles: Install small barriers to slow water runoff and allow it to soak into the soil. Use lightweight materials for easy installation.
- Retaining Cloth: Lay down porous material like burlap or mesh to stabilize the soil. This is particularly useful for slopes with severe erosion.
- Mulch: Apply a thick layer of organic mulch to slow runoff and improve soil health. Combine mulch with baffles for steeper slopes.
- Stone Riprap: Use stones or concrete rubble as a permanent mulch. This method not only controls erosion but also adds a natural aesthetic.
Summary: Key Takeaways for Slope Landscaping
- Assess the Slope: Understand its degree, soil type, and vegetation.
- Control Erosion: Use plantings, riprap, baffles, mini-terraces, and retaining walls.
- Maximize Space: Incorporate decks, terraces, steps, and integrated design.
- Innovative Planting: Manage lawns, use ground covers, exploit microclimates, and create terraces.
- Minor Erosion Techniques: Implement baffles, retaining cloth, mulch, and stone riprap.
These key points can be transformed into visually engaging Instagram reels or Canva infographics, offering practical and aesthetic solutions for landscaping sloped terrains. With creativity and the right techniques, your sloped garden can become a stunning, functional masterpiece.
Building Fences and Gates: A Step-by-Step Guide
Building a fence is a rewarding project that transforms your outdoor space while providing privacy, security, and aesthetic appeal. With some basic tools and a bit of effort, you can create a sturdy and attractive fence. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you through the process.
Introduction to Fence Building
Constructing a fence doesn’t require specialized skills or tools, making it an ideal DIY project. The most challenging part is digging the postholes, but once that’s done, the rest of the structure comes together quickly. Typically, all you need are a circular saw, a rented posthole digger, and standard carpentry tools.
Basic Elements of a Fence
All fences share a similar basic structure:
- Posts: Sunk into the ground to provide support.
- Rails: Connect the posts, running along the top, bottom, and usually the middle.
- Fencing Boards or Panels: Attached to the rails, giving the fence its distinctive look.
Privacy fences usually use 4×4 posts, while the size of the rails and fencing boards can vary.




















Planning Your Fence
Check Local Codes: Before starting, check your community’s building and zoning codes. These regulations often dictate the maximum fence height, setback distances from property lines and streets, and permissible materials.
Stake Out and Measure: Once you have your design and location, stake out the fence line and measure the site. Plan your post spacing to make efficient use of lumber. Posts spaced 6 to 7 feet apart generally work well; never space privacy-fence posts more than 8 feet apart.
Building on a Slope: If your fence will be on a slope, step the fence down the hill by setting each section lower than the one before it. Only follow the contour if the slope is slight and won’t compromise the fence design.
Choosing Fence Materials
When selecting materials, ensure durability, especially for parts in contact with the ground:
- Posts and Bottom Rails: Use construction-heart redwood, cedar, or ground-contact pressure-treated wood.
- Upper Rails and Fencing: Can be less expensive, rot-resistant lumber.
- Nails and Fittings: Opt for hot-dip galvanized to prevent rust.
For a painted or stained finish, apply it to the posts, rails, and fencing before assembly for better coverage and efficiency.
Step-by-Step Fence Construction
- Digging Postholes: The most labor-intensive part of the project. Use a rented posthole digger for efficiency.
- Setting the Posts: Place posts into the holes, ensuring they are level and properly spaced.
- Attaching the Rails: Connect the posts with top, bottom, and middle rails as needed.
- Nailing the Fencing Boards: Secure the fencing boards or panels to the rails, ensuring even spacing and alignment.
Finishing Touches
Once your fence is up, step back and admire your work. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure everything is secure and visually appealing. Enjoy the privacy and beauty your new fence brings to your outdoor space.
Key Takeaways for Fence Building
- Plan Thoroughly: Check local codes, measure accurately, and choose the right materials.
- Prepare Materials: Use durable wood for posts and bottom rails, and galvanized fittings to prevent rust.
- Step on Slopes: Step the fence down on slopes for a neat, sturdy finish.
- Finish Before Assembly: Apply paint or stain to components before assembling for better coverage.
These points can be easily converted into visual guides or quick tips for social media, making your fence-building project both efficient and enjoyable.
Building Latticework Screens
Designs for wooden privacy screens can be as varied and creative as those for wooden fences. A latticework screen, in particular, offers a visually appealing solution that provides privacy while allowing airflow and supporting climbing plants for added privacy.
What is Latticework?
Latticework refers to a decorative pattern created with narrow, thin strips of wood. Lattice screens come in different styles, often used for both aesthetic appeal and functionality. Typical patterns are shown in drawings. Privacy lattice usually has 1½-inch openings, while garden-spaced lattice features 3-inch openings.
Prefabricated vs. Homemade Lattice
Prefab Lattice Panels: These are readily available at most lumberyards and home centers in 4×8-foot sections. They are often cheaper than buying lath individually and are easy to install since they come pre-cut and pre-nailed.
Inspection Tips for Prefab Panels:
- Look for sturdy lath; some cheaper options use very thin lath.
- Ensure the staples are strong and secure.
Homemade Latticework: For custom projects, you can create your own lattice:
- Build a Frame: Construct a frame like the one shown at the top right of page 86.
- Paint or Stain: Apply paint or stain to the frame and lath strips before assembly for better coverage.
- Assemble the Lattice:
- Lay the lath strips diagonally across the frame, ensuring each strip touches the next to form a solid screen.
- Nail every other strip, then remove the pieces not nailed.
- Repeat with a second course of lattice, starting from the opposite corner.
- For garden-spaced lattice, nail every third strip.
- Blunt the tips of nails to avoid splitting the thin strips.
- Trim the Edges: After nailing all strips, trim the ends with a crosscut or circular saw.
Privacy and Security: Choosing a Fence or Screen Style
Selecting the right style for your fence or screen involves considering the overall design and functionality. Different styles cater to varying needs of privacy, aesthetics, and structural requirements.
Latticework Styles and Joinery Techniques
When attaching rails to posts, you have several options besides metal rail connectors. Choose based on your tools and skills:
- Dado Joint: Cut part of the post to make the rail flush with the post.
- Block Joint: Nail a short piece of 2×2 to the post, rest the rail on top, and toenail through the block into the post.
- Butt and Toenail Joint: Drive nails at an angle through the rail into the post.
Enhancing Fences and Screens with Plantings
Plants can soften the angular appearance of fences and screens, creating a cohesive garden look.
Plant Pointers:
- Group flowers and shrubs close to the structure to make the yard seem larger, placing taller plants in the back and shorter ones in front.
- Choose open and narrow varieties of shrubs and trees to prevent them from overpowering the fence and ensure they have enough space for growth.
- Vines are ideal for fences and screens, climbing unaided on wire or thin trellis. Attach strings to wooden surfaces if needed. Select vines that complement rather than cover elegant structures, and consider the strength of the fence or screen for heavier vines.
Colors and Microclimates:
- Use fences or screens as backdrops to make colors pop. Blue delphiniums, for instance, stand out against a white fence.
- Fences and screens can create microclimates, providing wind protection and influencing heat reflection or storage depending on their color and material.
Maintenance:
- Clear all plants and roots before building to ease maintenance.
- Use edging, plastic, or tar paper covered with gravel to prevent new roots from growing under the fence.
By thoughtfully planning and constructing your latticework screen or fence, you can create a beautiful, functional addition to your outdoor space that offers privacy, supports plants, and enhances the overall aesthetic.
Installing Security Lighting
Effective outdoor lighting provides multiple benefits, including discouraging intruders, preventing accidents, enhancing landscaping, and extending the time you can enjoy your outdoor space. This guide focuses on the security aspect of outdoor lighting.
Key Benefits of Security Lighting:
- Discourages Intruders: Well-lit areas deter potential intruders by eliminating hiding spots.
- Prevents Accidents: Illuminating pathways and steps reduces the risk of trips and falls.
- Enhances Landscaping: Thoughtfully placed lighting can highlight features of your landscape.
- Extends Usability: Proper lighting allows for the safe use of outdoor areas after dark.
How Much Lighting is Needed?
The illustration (not shown here) suggests points around your property that need illumination for security purposes. Generally, it’s better to have too many lights than too few. Outdoor light fixtures are relatively inexpensive, especially if you install them yourself, but the cost of operating them can add up. To manage this, consider installing separate switches, perhaps with a master switch that controls all the lights.
Types of Outdoor Light Fixtures:
- Post Lights: Illuminate walkways and driveways.
- Step Lights: Prevent stumbles on stairs.
- Floodlights: Mount on poles, in trees, or high on house walls to cover large areas.
- In-Ground Lights: Placed below plants to eliminate shadows where intruders might hide.
Installation Tips:
Before purchasing materials for a 120-volt project, check your community’s electrical code. Here are some general guidelines:
- Cable and Conduit:
- Some codes allow using UF (underground feeder) cable buried at least 12 inches deep, but the cable must be protected by conduit where it comes out of the ground.
- Other localities may require all outdoor wiring to run through plastic conduit, thin-wall EMT (electrical metallic tubing) conduit, or heavy-wall rigid conduit, which requires a trench only 6 inches deep.
- Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI):
- Most codes require outdoor lights and receptacles to be protected by a GFCI. This device detects shock hazards and shuts down the circuit.
- A GFCI in your home’s service panel can protect all outlets on that circuit. Alternatively, if you tap into an existing outdoor receptacle, a GFCI there can serve that receptacle and all outlets beyond it.
- 12-Volt Lighting:
- This type of lighting is simpler to install but less versatile than 120-volt systems. For more information on 12-volt lighting, refer to pages 214-215.
Practical Considerations:
- Switching: Install separate switches for different areas to control the lights efficiently.
- Placement: Strategically place lights to cover all critical areas, such as entry points, pathways, and dark corners.
- Maintenance: Regularly check and maintain your lighting system to ensure it remains effective and functional.
By carefully planning and installing security lighting, you can enhance the safety, security, and beauty of your outdoor spaces.
Sun and Shade in Your Yard
Understanding the pattern of sun and shade in your yard is crucial for effective landscaping. This pattern influences the placement of plants, structures, and other landscape features. Properly balancing sun and shade ensures a harmonious and enjoyable environment.
Assessing Sun and Shade Solutions
Your yard benefits from a mix of sun and shade, helping to moderate weather conditions. Sitting in the sun can be pleasant on a cool day, while shade offers relief during hot weather. Planning for ideal sun and shade involves a careful study of your yard’s conditions throughout the year.
Year-Round Observation
Before making any significant changes, observe the sun and shade patterns in your yard for a full year. This helps you understand how different areas are affected during various seasons.
- North and Compass Points: Orient yourself with the north point and other compass directions in your yard.
- Notes on Patterns: Record sunrise, sunset, and shadow patterns at different times of the day and year.
In the meantime, you can create temporary shade with fast-growing plants like vines or tall annuals. These plants can be trained on stakes or wires until you decide on permanent structures like trellises or arbors.
Planning for Sun and Shade
- Too Much Shade:
- Consult a tree specialist to discuss which trees to remove or prune.
- Pruning lower branches of large trees can open up space and improve light and air circulation.
- Too Little Shade:
- Consider structures like overhead sunshades, arbors, or trellises for instant shade.
- These structures can be built over patios, decks, paths, or garden corners and can be attached to your house or freestanding.
Choosing and Positioning Trees
Trees provide natural and graceful shade. When planning, consider the mature size of trees and shrubs to avoid overcrowding.
- Deciduous Trees: Block summer sun and allow winter light.
- Evergreens: Provide year-round shade.
Position trees with enough space for their mature size. For spreading trees, allow up to 65 feet between them, and for non-spreading trees, about 35 feet. Plant shrubs at least 3 to 4 feet from the house, considering the drip line to avoid overwatering or drowning plants.
Care and Maintenance
- Mulch: Surround trees and shrubs with mulch to promote growth.
- Cultivated Plants: Plant around the trunk to remind you to water and feed the plants.
- Tree Care: Regular maintenance by a tree expert can prevent damage from pests, diseases, and physical injuries.
Adjusting Your Garden for Sun and Shade
As your landscape evolves, adjust your gardening practices to suit the changing light conditions.
- Shade-Loving Plants: Place these in the darkest spots.
- Adaptable Plants: Use partial-shade areas for plants like daylilies.
- Sun-Loving Plants: Reserve the sunniest spots for vegetables and flowers. Consider planting sun lovers in containers for flexibility.
By carefully considering sun and shade patterns and planning accordingly, you can create a balanced and thriving landscape that enhances the beauty and functionality of your outdoor space.
Building Overhead Sunshades
Creating an overhead sunshade can greatly enhance the comfort and usability of your patio or deck, providing much-needed shade and protection from the elements. Here’s how to plan and build one effectively.
Planning Your Sunshade
New Patio or Deck: The ideal time to consider an overhead sunshade is during the planning phase of a new patio or deck. This allows you to incorporate footings for the sunshade’s posts directly into the deck’s structure, ensuring stability and seamless integration.
Existing Patio or Deck: If you’re adding a sunshade to an existing structure, you’ll need to establish posts for support. Review the basic post installation techniques and assemble the framing as described.
Framing Considerations
Since the canopy materials are lightweight and won’t bear heavy loads, the framing doesn’t need to be as robust as that of a deck. However, it must be sturdy enough to withstand strong winds and prevent collapse, especially in regions with heavy snowfall.
Attachment Methods
You have two main options for attaching the sunshade:
- Attached to the House: This method uses a ledger board attached to the house. The height and positioning of the ledger will depend on whether your house is one or two stories high.
- Freestanding: For a freestanding sunshade, use additional posts and beams instead of a ledger. This method offers more flexibility in placement and design.
Canopy Material Options
Choose a canopy material based on your aesthetic preferences and practical needs. Consider how much shade you require and whether the material will allow for adequate ventilation and not overly darken your indoor spaces.
- Lattice: Crisscrossed slats of lath provide a decorative, lacy effect. Paint or use grape-stake lattice for a rustic texture.
- Reed or Bamboo: These natural materials are cost-effective but have a limited lifespan. Extend their usability by storing them indoors during winter.
- Shade Cloth: This mesh fabric filters sunlight while allowing air and moisture to pass through, creating a cooler shaded area.
- Canvas: Heavy cotton duck canvas offers some rain protection but must be stretched taut to prevent water pooling.
- Fiberglass: Corrugated plastic panels are easy to cut and install. Ensure the canopy is sloped for proper water runoff.
Step-by-Step Construction
- Post Installation: Whether attaching to a new or existing deck, ensure your posts are securely anchored. For new constructions, integrate footings with the deck’s foundation.
- Framing Assembly: Construct the frame using treated lumber. Ensure all connections are secure and the structure is level and square.
- Ledger Attachment (if applicable): Secure the ledger board to your house using appropriate fasteners. Ensure it is level and properly sealed to prevent water intrusion.
- Beam and Rafter Installation: Attach beams to the posts and ledger (if using). Install rafters perpendicular to the beams, spacing them according to your canopy material’s requirements.
- Canopy Installation: Install your chosen canopy material. Ensure it is securely attached and meets your shade and ventilation needs.
- Finishing Touches: Paint or stain the structure for added protection and aesthetic appeal. Consider adding decorative elements such as hanging plants or outdoor lighting.




















Building Arbors
Creating an arbor can add a beautiful, shaded space to your garden, perfect for relaxing under a canopy of vining plants. Here’s how you can plan and build your own arbor, along with some tips on choosing and managing the vines that will adorn it.
Types of Arbors
Teahouse Arbor: This structure resembles a miniature barn with roof trusses, providing a sturdy and decorative addition to your garden. It can be enhanced with benches to create a mini-gazebo effect.
Simple Arbor: This version consists of two posts topped with a 2-foot-wide slatted sunshade. It can frame a view, serve as a gateway, or provide a boundary for a patio or deck.
Construction Basics
Materials: Use pressure-treated 4x4s for the posts to ensure longevity and redwood for the superstructures to add beauty.
Post Installation: Erecting either type of arbor involves setting the posts in concrete. Dig postholes, set the posts, and allow the concrete to cure before assembling the rest of the structure.
Trusses for Teahouse Arbor:
- Miter Cuts: Miter one end of two rafters and lay them out on a flat surface.
- Cross Brace: Measure and cut the cross brace.
- Vertical Stud: Make two miter cuts on one end to create a point that fits into the peak, providing rigidity.
- Truss Plates: Secure the joints with galvanized-metal truss nailing plates, available at most lumberyards and home centers.
Spacing: Space the posts no more than 6 feet apart. If extending to 8 feet, increase beam sizes from 2×6 to 2×8.
Choosing Vines for Your Arbor
Considerations:
- Shade Needs: Determine how much shade you need and select vines accordingly.
- Aesthetics: Consider the fragrance, bloom time, and color of the vines.
- Growth Characteristics: Understand the growth habits of different vines to match your needs, whether it be for fragrance, formal appearance, or screening.
Types of Vines:
- Twining Vines: Require a thin support to climb. Examples include bittersweet and kiwi (counterclockwise), honeysuckle, and Japanese wisteria (clockwise).
- Tendrils or Modified Leaf Stalks: These vines climb by winding tendrils around supports. Examples include clematis, grape, melon, pea, passion vines, and creepers.
- Holdfasts: Vines like Boston ivy attach themselves to surfaces with small, rootlike grips. Ideal for brick or stone but not recommended for frame houses due to potential damage.
Managing Vines
- Annual Vines: Provide shade by mid to late summer. Examples include morning-glory.
- Perennial Vines: Offer shade by late spring as they have established roots and wood.
- Combination: Using both annual and perennial vines can provide quick and lasting shade.
Pruning: Some vines grow rapidly and require frequent pruning to manage their growth and ensure they don’t overwhelm the arbor.
Filtered Screening: For delicate screening, choose vines like clematis, honeysuckles, mandevilla, or Virginia creeper.
By following these guidelines, you can build a beautiful and functional arbor that enhances your garden space and provides a lush, shaded retreat.
Choosing Plants to Provide Dense Shade
Trees
Crab Apple (Malus species and hybrids)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 15-25 feet
- Zones: 3-8
- Soil: Rich, well-drained; tolerant
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: Crab apples are known for their fragrant spring flowers and fall fruit, which provide food for birds and a lovely winter decoration. They require regular maintenance including spraying, pruning, and borer control. Varieties like ‘Transcendent’ and ‘Dolgo’ are best for eating, though fruit production may vary biennially.
Dogwood (Cornus florida)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 15-30 feet
- Zones: 5-9
- Soil: Rich, slightly acidic, moist
- Light: Prefers some shade
- Comments: Dogwoods offer multi-seasonal interest with spring blooms, good summer foliage, dark red autumn color, and winter appeal. Available in red and pink varieties, and the Japanese dogwood (Cornus kousa) blooms later with pointed bracts.
Maple (Acer species)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: Up to 80 feet and more
- Zones: 3-8
- Soil: Any good soil, prefers moist
- Light: Full sun or light shade
- Comments: With 90 species, maples offer a variety of habits, growth rates, and leaf colors. They are known for their brilliant autumn colors and are generally easy to grow with few pest or disease problems. Some species, like the sugar maple, are valued for syrup production.
Oak (Quercus species)
- Type: Mostly deciduous
- Height: 50 feet and higher
- Zones: 4-9
- Soil: Acidic, moist, well-drained
- Light: Sun or light shade
- Comments: Oaks are excellent for shade and as specimen trees. They vary greatly in leaf shape, color, and acorn production, which benefits wildlife. They are valued for their sturdy growth and wide-spreading branches, some with evergreen qualities.
Spruce (Picea species)
- Type: Coniferous evergreen
- Height: Most 100 feet or more
- Zones: 2-9
- Soil: Prefers cool, moist soil
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: Stiff, formal trees with downward-hanging cones. Blue spruces are particularly prized for their color. Older spruces often lose their lower branches, altering their shape but improving yard circulation.
Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 75 feet or more
- Zones: 5-9
- Soil: Deep, rich, acidic, moist
- Light: Full sun or light shade
- Comments: Fast-growing trees with a pyramidal shape, distinctive green leaves, and tulip-shaped flowers in late spring. These trees can drop sooty mold or honeydew from aphids, so avoid planting near patios or driveways.
Shrubs
Andromeda (Pirns species)
- Type: Broad-leaved evergreen
- Height: 2-9 feet
- Zones: 4-8
- Soil: Sandy, acidic, moist
- Light: Sun to partial shade
- Comments: Known for its lustrous dark green foliage with bronze new leaves, andromeda has showy buds all winter and lily-of-the-valley-like flowers in spring. It is best planted in sheltered spots in the North.
Vines
Silver-Lace Vine (Polygonum auberti)
- Type: Woody perennial
- Length: 25 feet
- Zones: 4-8
- Soil: Average, tolerates dry conditions
- Light: Full sun is best
- Comments: Rapid-growing with fragrant greenish-white flowers in late summer and early fall. It provides dense foliage and is easy to grow from seeds, root divisions, or cuttings. Prune severely in late winter to control growth.
Choosing Plants to Provide Filtered Shade
Trees
Birch (Betula species)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 25-90 feet
- Zones: 2-10
- Soil: Moist
- Light: Full sun to light shade
- Comments: Valued for their interesting bark and early spring catkin blooms. Short-lived and susceptible to many pests, birches are often planted in clumps for their visual appeal.
Cherry, Plum, Peach (Prunus species)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: Mostly 20-25 feet
- Zones: 2-10
- Soil: Well-drained
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: This group includes many ornamental and fruit-bearing species. They are decorative with spring flowers and varying foliage. Some are evergreen, and shade density varies among species.
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 50-80 feet
- Zones: 5-10
- Soil: Deep, loose
- Light: Full sun to part shade
- Comments: Hardy and slow-growing, ginkgo trees are ideal as lawn or street trees. They are pest-free and tolerant of pollution. Male trees are preferred to avoid the unpleasant odor of crushed berries.
Pine (Pinus species)
- Type: Coniferous evergreen
- Height: 30-100 feet
- Zones: 3-9
- Soil: Well-drained, low fertility
- Light: Full sun to timber shade
- Comments: Pines vary widely in height, hardiness, and shape. Pruning in spring encourages thicker growth. Select varieties suited to your area and landscape needs.
Shrubs
Forsythia (Forsythia species)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 2-12 feet
- Zones: 4-8
- Soil: Any, except very dry
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: Known for early spring golden flowers, forsythia is hardy but needs space. Prune after blooming by removing unwanted canes at the ground level.
Lilac (Syringa species)
- Type: Deciduous
- Height: 3-20 feet
- Zones: 2-9
- Soil: Well-drained, rich
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: Famous for fragrant flowers in spring, lilacs are popular despite their short blooming season. Prune after blooming to maintain shape and health.
Vines
Clematis (Clematis species and hybrids)
- Type: Perennial
- Length: 5-30 feet
- Zones: 4-9
- Soil: Sandy, slightly alkaline
- Light: Full sun to light shade
- Comments: Clematis vines vary widely in bloom type, color, and season. They require humus-rich soil and mulch to keep roots cool and moist. Minimal pruning is needed.
Morning-Glory (Ipomea purpurea)
- Type: Mostly annual
- Length: 8-10 feet
- Zones: 4-10
- Soil: Not too high in nitrogen
- Light: Full sun
- Comments: Easily grown and loved for their summer-long blooms. Soak seeds overnight before sowing, and plant improved varieties for best results. Combine with perennial or woody vines for shade.
Building Walks and Paths
Constructing a walk or path offers an excellent introduction to the basics of garden paving. Unlike the bigger jobs of pouring a patio or building a driveway, you don’t need to move a lot of earth, prepare extensive footings, or wrestle with large volumes of tricky materials. Best of all, you can work at your own pace, completing several sections one weekend, more the next.
Note that we show only two of the myriad possibilities for walkway paving materials. For others, refer to additional resources. If you already have a concrete walk that is sound but drab, consider veneering it with tile, flagstones, brick, or other materials.
Exposing Aggregate
To achieve the rustic, skid-proof texture of an exposed-aggregate walk, use one of two methods:
- Mix Aggregate with Concrete: Pour concrete with the aggregate mixed in. After the concrete begins to set, scrub some of it away.
- Seed Aggregate on Top: Seed aggregate on top of a just-poured slab, screed the stone into the concrete, and then scrub.
Masonry dealers offer a variety of aggregates that vary by region. Choose pea gravel, river pebbles, granite chips, or other options based on your preference. Timing plays a critical role in the outcome of an exposed-aggregate finish. Don’t scrape away the concrete until the aggregate holds firm. If weather conditions are right, this stage should occur in about 1 1/2 hours, but it could take up to six hours. To test, lay a board on the surface and kneel on it; if the board leaves marks, allow more time. If any aggregate dislodges when you start brushing, stop and let the concrete set some more.
Finally, slow curing gives concrete its strength, so wait a week or so before walking on it. Also, dampen the concrete daily as it cures.
Building Steps
Properly constructed garden steps not only take a walk or path into another dimension, but they also serve as a retaining wall, holding back soil erosion. This means you need to plan carefully and securely anchor them into the slope they ascend. Select materials to match or contrast with the walkways at top and bottom.
Laying Out Steps
To determine how many steps you need, how deep each tread will be, and how high to make each riser, use this rule: The tread dimension plus the riser dimension should equal about 17 inches. Try to make your riser dimension no more than 7 inches and no less than 4 inches. Ensure all treads and risers are exactly the same depth and height to avoid tripping hazards.
Use stakes and a level string or board to determine the total rise and run your steps will traverse. Divide these measurements by combinations of tread and riser sizes until you come out with equal-sized steps. Check local building codes for any limitations on tread and riser sizes and other stairway dimensions. Codes also mandate handrails in some situations.
Building Ramps
A ramp makes a gentle transition from one level to another, smoothing the path for everything from tricycles to wheelbarrows, especially for wheelchairs.
Ramp Basics
Safety and ease of use are the prime considerations for any ramp. Slope a wheelchair ramp at a rise of no more than 1 foot per 12 feet of run. This standard can make for incredibly long ramps—a total rise of 2 feet requires a length of at least 24 feet. Even if your ramp won’t be used by anyone in a wheelchair, slope it no more than about 1 foot for every 7 feet of run.
For wheelchair use, include handrails on both sides of your ramp, and make the ramp wide enough so the distance between the handrails is at least 36 inches. Any incline longer than 30 feet needs a landing where a wheelchair user can rest and maneuver the chair. Landings must measure at least 5×5 feet. Where doors open outward, the adjacent landing must be at least 5×6 1/2 feet to provide enough room for a wheelchair user to move back when opening the door.
Installing Handrails
For ramps, install handrails about 32 inches high with a grip width of about 1 1/2 inches. For steps, set handrails about 30 inches high, and at stairway landings, 34 inches high. Attach rail brackets to concrete steps or to the structure for wood steps. Balusters should be securely attached to the structure for wood ramps and steps.
Installing Walk Edgings
Looking for a way to dress up a plain-Jane path, provide crisp lines between paving and landscaping materials, or hold masonry units in line? Edging can do all these jobs—and more—for only a modest investment of time and money. In most cases, you simply decide on the material you’d like to use, excavate shallow trenches on either side of the walk, and stake or set the edging in place. (One exception is the integral concrete edging, which is installed at the same time as a new walk.)
Mowing Strips
Edging materials are every bit as various as the pavings they border. Choose from concrete, brick, stone, tile, wood, and vinyl. Edging styles, however, fall into just two broad categories. A raised edging puts a lip at each side of a walk or path. A mowing strip installs flush with the walk so you can run one wheel of a mower along it.
- Dimensions: Make mowing strips 6 to 12 inches wide.
- Materials: Concrete, brick, tile, and other smooth-surface masonry materials are best for mowing strips. Timbers can be used but are easily nicked by the mower blade.
Raised Edgings
A raised edging keeps aggressive ground cover from overgrowing a walk, channels water runoff, and makes a clean break between differing surfaces. If you’re planning a path of gravel, mulch, or other loose-fill material, a raised edging is the only way to go.
- Height: Keep a raised edging low, around 1/2 inch or make it 3 or more inches high. Anything in between poses a tripping hazard.
- Installation: See photos for installation of popular types of raised edgings. Give thought to the type of plantings you select for alongside a walk or path.
Choosing Walk and Edging Materials
Walk Materials
Loose Fill
- Description: Aggregate, pebbles, crushed rock, sand, shredded bark, nutshells, seashells, and pine straw go directly on the surface you want to cover.
- Effect: Organic loose fills add a rustic look and interesting texture to lightly used areas. Mineral ones have a more formal appearance.
- Cost: Among the most economical walk materials, but because loose fill is prone to erosion and tends to overflow its boundaries, it needs replenishing periodically.
- Comments: Drains well, conforms to contours, and is easily installed over compacted sand. Confine with edging to prevent spreading.
Wood Planks
- Description: Docklike strips of decking you can lay on a sand or gravel base or atop an existing masonry walk.
- Effect: Warm, rustic, and an especially good choice if you want to extend an on-grade or raised deck out into your yard.
- Cost: Less than brick, stone, or tile; more than concrete or loose fill.
- Comments: Use pressure-treated lumber or naturally rot-resistant redwood, cedar, or cypress. Keep out of contact with vegetation. Leave drainage spaces between boards. Construct as for on-grade deck but omit posts and footings.
Wood Rounds or Blocks
- Description: Slices of logs or timbers set in a bed of sand or loose fill, or simply cut into sod and surrounded by grass.
- Effect: Similar to stepping-stones, but even more organic in appearance. An ideal choice for a romantic country garden or a meandering forest path.
- Cost: Very cheap if you have wood and a chain saw and set rounds or blocks in sand. Otherwise, a little more than the cost of loose fill.
- Comments: Not a good choice for heavily traveled paths, especially any that lead directly to your home as fill materials can stick to shoes and travel indoors.
Brick
- Description: Any of a vast variety of clay-based materials set in sand or mortared to a concrete base.
- Effect: Create almost any look from an arrow-straight front entry walk to a serpentine cobblestone path through clumps of wildflowers.
- Cost: Relatively expensive but very durable.
- Comments: For more design interest, consider using two or more colors. Bricks set in sand may need leveling every so often.
Edging Materials
Vinyl
- Description: Flexible strips of solid or metal-capped plastic that can be set into the ground with or without staking.
- Effect: Easily shaped, negotiates curves with ease. Comes in a limited range of colors but harmonizes with just about any surfacing material.
- Cost: Moderate, especially considering vinyl lasts practically forever.
- Comments: The easiest edging to install. Simply slice cuts next to paving with a spade and press or stake the vinyl in place. Keep the mower away from this material.
Brick
- Description: Paving bricks set on edge, on end, or at an angle for a sawtooth effect.
- Effect: Probably the most popular edging material. Excellent border for concrete, loose fill, and brick paving. Choose colors that match or contrast with the walk’s surface.
- Cost: Moderate to expensive, depending on the type selected. Save money with used bricks if willing to chip mortar off them.
- Comments: Set bricks in sand or mortar them to a concrete base.




















Patios and Decks
One of the best ways to civilize your yard is to add a patio or deck. With the addition of either, you’ll soon be escaping to the great outdoors at every possible chance. As a bonus, you’ll find that a patio or deck enriches life within the home, too. The new inside-looking-out views will visually expand crowded indoor rooms and help assuage fits of cabin fever by stirring memories of pleasant moments spent outside.
Assessing Patio and Deck Options
A house needs more than four walls, a floor, and a ceiling for living. Outdoors, why settle for just four boundaries, grass, and trees? Yards, like indoor rooms, should offer an irresistible invitation to wander, rest, eat, and enjoy. One of the primary ways to bring this about is with a patio, a deck, or a combination of both. These cost much less to build than indoor rooms and barely disrupt the household during the construction process. You can build the simpler ones yourself.
Start by thinking about your family’s needs and your landscape style, then imagine which of the many variations pictured in this chapter might work best.
At the Start
Check local building codes, regulations, and zoning restrictions first. It may be that overhead sunshades need approval, that power lines cannot pass over, or that footings, spans, and deck railings over slopes must conform to specific standards. Property lines and easements will reduce your options, too. So will any deed restrictions and the location of a septic tank.
Where you place your patio or deck is most important. Access to the kitchen, living room, or family room will make a big difference to outdoor use and indoor appreciation. Entry from more than one room or a pass-through at the kitchen window will make a patio or deck more useful, too.
Patios and decks on the north and east will have less sun and more cooling breezes in warm climates and warm weather. Those on the south and west will receive much-appreciated extra sun in cooler climates and seasons. Take time to study wind and rain directions in your yard, as well as sun and shadow patterns. See how they vary with the seasons before choosing a site.
Remember that cool air moves downward over land. If you build your deck on the uphill side of your house, you will be more comfortable on chilly evenings.
Depending on your climate, you may want to make provisions for rain protection, either overhead or from the direction summer rains usually blow. Anchor your deck against wind blasts, and make sure it will support the weight of the expected snowfall.
If space or privacy dictate that you build where the climate is less favorable, overhead sunshades, screens, or well-placed trees can make your outdoor room much more comfortable. Remember that deciduous trees will cool the scene in summer yet not block the winter sun.
Compare the Options
Decks are more part of the house; patios, more part of the garden. Decks have a soft look and are more in accord with a wooden house or a rustic setting. They do not reflect unwanted heat and light. Patios have a more permanent look and feel. And their reflected heat feels great in the spring. Because of the wide variety of paving materials available, patios can complement any style of house and landscape. They do require level ground, though. If your yard is completely flat, consider excavating for a sunken patio to add interest. Such a patio will be cooler in summer, give a different view of the surroundings, and provide privacy. It also will cost more because of the need to dig and to retain the surrounding area.
The greatest advantage of decks is that, because they do not require level land, they can make a terrible terrain lovely and useful. Decks also can be built over old, cracked concrete without the expense or work of tearing it out. A good combination is a deck at the floor level of the house, with steps leading down to a patio in the garden.
Either project will be enjoyed for weeks longer on both sides of summer if you build around a fire pit. Some fire pits can double as low tables in hot weather.
Renters or those who want an instant outdoor room while forming their landscaping plans should consider building a portable deck. These units can be built in a day, moved from sun to shade with the season, and stored away for the winter. Later, they can be placed permanently. Modular deck walkways can be useful, too, in a new yard. When final plans are made, move the units or arrange them into a deck.
As a rule, freestanding decks will not get as much use as those attached to the house. But a small freestanding deck at the edge of the yard or in a clump of trees and shrubs can be an ideal hideaway. Add a gazebo—now or later—and the freestanding deck can become a focal point for the yard, particularly when inviting paths or steps direct visitors.
The wood of decks blends well with hot tubs, while the solid surface of a patio works better around most swimming pools, though there can be exceptions. Because of its formality, a patio best fits most ornamental pools or fountains. Decks easily expand to include sandboxes and play structures.
You may want to build some sort of overhead sunshade to frame the view, shade the interior, or protect from the elements. While still in the planning stage, remember to include needed lighting and electrical outlets. Consider your storage needs, too, because decks, benches, and raised planters are perfect places for built-in hideaways.
To avoid puddling problems, be sure to leave or build in ways for water to drain off your patio. Don’t block all of the deck edges, either; leave some open for when you hose down or sweep your deck.
Decide on Size
Keep all aspects of your deck or patio in scale as you plan. Outdoor rooms need to be about the same size as the largest indoor rooms. Measure your patio furniture and add enough room for pulling out chairs and walking around.
A minimum of 5 feet by 6 feet allows two people to sit and relax beside a table, but it is cramped if anyone else comes along. Put such small patios and decks away from the house for solitude. Or start small and add on as family size, time, energy, and budget dictate.
For an attached patio, 15 by 25 feet is probably a good minimum size. It provides ample room for furniture, a grill, and some storage. Multiple units, perhaps connected by steps or paved walks, are often more satisfactory than one large one; each unit can function as a separate room and offer its own view.
Other Considerations
As your outdoor room progresses from dream to reality, you’ll need to weigh such choices as pavings, railings, and benches, all of which are discussed in the next few pages.
Since you may well choose your location because of the shade and beauty of surrounding trees, you’ll want to take every measure to preserve them. The major root systems of most trees extend to the drip line of the branches. If you wish to use a masonry surface over this area, loose gravel or bricks set on sand will allow air and water to reach the roots. Concrete won’t.
If you grade or fill more than 3 to 6 inches within a tree’s drip line, serious damage to the roots could cause the eventual death of the tree. Here, a deck has the advantage. You need only build around the trunk, and the tree lives happily ever after. But that means it grows, so make the hole’s framework large enough that you can cut off board edges as needed.
If you decide on more drastic grade changes, check with a tree specialist for details about building a raised bed or a dry well.
When your plan assumes definite dimensions, make a final check to eliminate costly and disappointing mistakes. Stake off the area and connect the stakes with string. Hang sheets to simulate privacy screens. Mentally or actually put your patio furniture in place. Visualize the height of the benches and railings; check everything for scale and unity. Adjust your landscape plan as needed. And before construction begins, remove the topsoil to other parts of the yard or stockpile it for use around your patio or deck.
PATIOS AND DECKS
One of the best ways to enhance your yard is by adding a patio or deck. With either addition, you’ll find yourself escaping to the great outdoors at every opportunity. These spaces enrich home life by providing new inside-looking-out views that visually expand indoor rooms and help alleviate cabin fever with memories of pleasant outdoor moments.
Assessing Patio and Deck Options
A house needs more than four walls, a floor, and a ceiling for living. Outdoors, why settle for just boundaries, grass, and trees? Yards, like indoor rooms, should offer an irresistible invitation to wander, rest, eat, and enjoy.
Adding a patio, a deck, or a combination of both can achieve this. These additions cost much less to build than indoor rooms and cause minimal disruption during construction. You can even build simpler ones yourself.
Start by considering your family’s needs and landscape style, then imagine which variations pictured in this chapter might work best.
At the Start
- Check local building codes, regulations, and zoning restrictions first. Overhead sunshades may need approval, and power lines cannot pass over certain areas. Footings, spans, and deck railings over slopes must conform to specific standards. Property lines, easements, deed restrictions, and the location of a septic tank may also impact your options.
- Where you place your patio or deck is crucial. Access to the kitchen, living room, or family room will significantly affect outdoor use and indoor appreciation. Entry from more than one room or a pass-through at the kitchen window will enhance its utility.
- Consider the orientation: patios and decks on the north and east will have less sun and more cooling breezes in warm climates. Those on the south and west will receive more sun, which is appreciated in cooler climates and seasons.
- Study wind and rain directions, sun and shadow patterns, and how they vary with the seasons before choosing a site. Cool air moves downward, so a deck on the uphill side of your house will be more comfortable on chilly evenings.
- Depending on your climate, you may need to make provisions for rain protection, anchor your deck against wind blasts, and ensure it will support the expected snowfall.
- If climate conditions are less favorable, overhead sunshades, screens, or well-placed trees can make your outdoor room more comfortable. Deciduous trees will cool the area in summer without blocking the winter sun.
Compare the Options
- Decks are more part of the house; patios are more part of the garden. Decks have a soft look that complements wooden houses or rustic settings, and they do not reflect unwanted heat and light.
- Patios have a more permanent look and feel. They are ideal for level ground and can complement any house or landscape style. Sunken patios can add interest, provide cooler environments in summer, and offer different views and privacy. They do cost more due to excavation and retaining needs.
- Decks can make a challenging terrain lovely and useful without requiring level ground. They can also be built over old, cracked concrete, avoiding the expense of removal.
- A combination of a deck at house floor level with steps leading to a patio in the garden can be an ideal solution.
Size and Design Considerations
- Keep your deck or patio in scale with your home. Outdoor rooms should be about the same size as the largest indoor rooms.
- A small patio or deck (5×6 feet) allows two people to relax beside a table but is cramped for more. Such small spaces are better away from the house for solitude or as a starting point for future expansion.
- For an attached patio, 15×25 feet is a good minimum size, providing ample space for furniture, a grill, and some storage.
- Multiple units, connected by steps or paved walks, often work better than one large space, each functioning as a separate room with its own view.
Creating the Ultimate Patio
Build the perfect patio, and your summers will be filled with breezy afternoons, outdoor suppers, and gentle evenings with children chasing fireflies while adults relax. This ideal patio is visible indoors from doorways and windows, inviting you to step outside. It’s easily accessible from the kitchen and family room, becoming an extension of both.
It offers privacy and comfortable, practical furniture to make it cozy, yet spacious enough for fresh air and entertaining. The surface should drain and dry quickly after rain, be safe, nonskid, and comfortable underfoot. The patio should be a focal point of beauty, blending the garden’s charm with the house’s comfort. Surrounding plants should allow for easy maintenance, with space for children to play safely under adult supervision.
The ultimate patio feels like a natural part of the landscape, as if it grew there, making the most of a pleasurable site.
Building Sand-Base Patios
Laying bricks, flagstones, or other paving materials on a sand base creates a durable patio surface that’s flexible enough to handle frost heave and settlement. This method is straightforward, requiring only shallow excavation for a thin layer of crushed rock, sand, and the paving material. There’s no need for concrete.
Steps for Building Sand-Base Patios
- Choose Materials: Patio bricks come in various sizes, shapes, and colors. For northern climates, use SW (severe weathering) bricks. In milder zones, MW (moderate weathering) grade is suitable. Avoid NW (no weathering) bricks outdoors.
- Compute Quantity: Measure the area of your patio in square feet and consult your dealer to determine how many bricks you’ll need.
- Other Materials: Besides bricks, stone types such as rubble, flagstone, and ashlar can be used. Installation procedures are the same, though some materials may require mortar between units.
Building Concrete Patios
Compared to sand-base patios, constructing a concrete patio is more demanding, involving excavation, form-building, and concrete pouring. The result is a durable, flat surface requiring minimal maintenance.
Steps for Building Concrete Patios
- Tools Needed: Besides carpentry and garden tools, you’ll need a tamper, darby or bull float, edging trowel, jointer, and rectangular concrete trowel.
- Build Forms: Use smooth, straight 2x4s for forms, setting their tops an inch above lawn level. Brace forms well to withstand wet concrete’s pressure. For proper drainage, slope the patio 1/4 inch per foot away from the house.
- Permanent Forms: If using wood for edging, choose redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated lumber. Apply sealer for added rot resistance and tape the top edges to prevent staining or scratching.
Weatherproofing and Surfacing
To maintain your patio, apply clear sealants or masonry paint to protect it from moisture. For existing concrete patios, consider veneering with materials like flagstones, slate, or tiles to improve durability and aesthetic appeal.
By adopting these strategies, you can create an outdoor space that not only enhances your yard but also offers long-lasting comfort and functionality. For more tips on tackling challenging landscapes, such as steep slopes, visit How to Landscape a Steep Slope.



























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